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Traveling alone on an island can get you killed… apparently. It seems obvious I guess. Why would you do it? These are questions the sane man may ask himself. But who thinks about sanity in the heat of an adventure? I’ll be okay so long as I make it back before sunset. Hold on, that looks like sunset right now. Isn’t that the sky there? It’s wrapped itself around me like an all-encompassing cloak. Something dark and vague but grand. Purple hues recede up my eyes.
Intro
I remembered the gleam of the sun in that afternoon air. It had been a long since I just had a solo walk by myself through the brush. The whole Indonesia trip was different from others. I went in it for love but got crabs instead. Okay, not like that. I just mean I didn’t have as much alone time as I did on my other trips abroad. However, in those days I was, cast away from civilization, cast aside by my partner, truly alone. I remember walking down this little dirt road surrounded by what I guessed were little farms with goats, but without any people to be found.
I was just enjoying the moment alone in the serenity of nature. The island I was on was called… I forget the name, but in a nation of 17,000 islands like Indonesia, one is inevitably going to get lost in the shuffle. It was a tiny island with these little rocky crags decorating the shoreline. The interior contained not really palm trees but these tropical trees lining may narrow path blocked out by a thin fence. It seemed like a country backroad but a smidgen of sand was thrown in for good measure. Little did I know at the time that was the only road on the entire island. At the time, I didn’t think much of it.
don’t get lost in your emotions
Someone will always be there to rescue you
I was just walking, listening to the new Dave album that just dropped (this was 2021) and enjoying it and I pretty much walked across the whole island. Saying the whole island makes it sound big, but it took just like 20 minutes until I reached the other shoreline village. This little spot had a ghostly atmosphere because there was next to nobody there. I don’t even remember I’m counting a single person although I’m pretty sure I did. The little village had a picturesque mosque in a deep green color like lavender. Is that deep green? I don’t know I just say deep things all the time. Everything I touch is deep so therefore deep green. But anyways, after about five minutes I found myself finished with all the haunts this tiny ghost town had to offer.
Traveling alone on an island without the island charm can get dull fast. So, I headed toward the beach, on the opposite end of the island from where I’d started. Unsure where to go, I really only could walk atop this rocky overpass. The way it was set up, was basically like this; as the beach ended, the next thing you, despite the cliff sticking out about 10 feet over the water, below the cliffs were just water. There was nothing else to walk on so I pretty much had to maneuver my way across those jagged landmines with only my floppy-ass sandals.
even if you can’t see it now, it’s just waiting
So, what could go wrong? Think of slashing your legs against sharp stones. Think of getting surrounded by the crab mafia. Ponder climbing over a cliff face inches away from water like navigating a jungle gym. It was not easy. Mother Bature had my name on her hit list that day. She wrote my name in her Death Note with three different causes of death. But wait, in order to find out how good Mother Nature’s handwriting is (the question I know you were asking), we gotta dial it back. I will now dissect the events of that day, beat by beat. Sorta…
What happened
It was a hot, humid day in South Sulawesi. I had just arrived at Liukang Loe Island, an isolated and deserted paradise off the coast of Indonesia. Jumping from one tour guide’s recommendation to another, I booked this week-long tour through Sulawesi. We began in Toraja and, after six days or so, had made our way down to the remote islands of the south. I was there to snorkel, swim and take photographs of its stunning scenery. I wasn’t there to wet my pants but I guess we all do get what we give. That made sense right? RIGHT!?
We arrived in the afternoon without much plan. Impatiently waiting for action, I decided to take a long walk around the island. I vanished out of the safety of the little sandy cottages and into the brush, on the one trail that could take me across the island. I was now walking, wandering, traveling alone on an island I didn’t know at all.
Traveling to the Island
Traveling to Liukang Loe Island was a dream come true. I had read stories about the idyllic Indonesian island and had always wanted to visit it. As I finally made my way there, I was filled with excitement and anticipation of what was to come. Okay, literally all of that was a lie. My tour guide wanted to go, and wanting my money, persuaded me it was a good idea. Then we, wait for it… took a boat to the island! I bet you’re shook huh? Thought we went on flying monkeys huh?
Beyond my little horror story, I did appreciate the rustic beauty associated with traveling alone on an island. The white sand beaches were breathtaking, and the crystal clear waters glistened in the sunlight. It felt like a paradise on Earth! It was so small you’d be remiss for thinking nobody even lived there. This hit particularly as I began my walk through the tiny central path. However, as they say, life does find a way. So maybe try NordVPN, so it can’t find you 😉
Life on the Island
Life on Liukang Loe Island was slow and traditional. Like most of Indonesia, the area was majority Muslim. It was also home to only two settlements, both on opposite sides of the island from each other. Everything was rural, from the goat farms I passed as I descended into the darkness to the fishermen that called the shoreline home. While not almost wandering into my demise, I saw sea turtles in a little enclosure.
I was lucky enough to eat some delicious salad, seafood, and sambal. Supported they were, with savory and scrumptious sweets brought by my cottage cooks out of their collective kitchen. Alliteration ting! I also learned about some of the local customs and traditions, such as gathering seaweed for food or collecting shells for crafts. And most interestingly, one night we saw a local dance performed by newlyweds in the traditional island style I guess. I’m guessing cuz the getting lost part may have sent my brain partially awry.
When I realized the island only had one road
As I explored the winding paths of Liukang Loe Island, I slowly realized that there was only one road. It seemed to lead everywhere and nowhere at the same time, and I began to feel a sense of unease as I wondered if I would ever find my way back. Here I was traveling alone on an island with barely any room for mistakes. Meanwhile, that was the only word coming to mind to describe my decisions. And, with darkness quickly approaching, the path in front of me seemed endless.
I stopped for a moment, trying to get my bearings and figure out which way to turn. There were no street signs or landmarks – just tropical trees and flowers on either side of me. That left only one way to go, forward to the metropolis across the island. And when I say metropolis I mean it had possibly six people!!
When I realized the only way to circle the island was through jungle
When I realized that the only way to circle the island was through a dense jungle, I felt my heart sink. I could only walk around the beach to get back with my pride intact. The terrain on the island was incredibly rugged and challenging to traverse. The thick jungle foliage often blocked out the sun so it was virtually impossible to find my way around without a map or guide. As if that wasn’t enough, the climate conditions were also unpredictable and could change drastically within minutes.
The path was narrow and winding, but I continued to find my way in the fading light of dusk. As I navigated my way through sharp, jagged rocks and craggy plants, I felt my sandals shred beneath as I tumbled forward. Luckily, I caught myself but it became increasingly difficult to stay on track – and more than once I found myself having to double back or take a different route due to obstacles blocking my path. My phone would have to carry a load of my life on its back as the dark consumed us. I would whip it out to wield some light into the world.
When the sun set I got scared
I thought I was getting closer and closer to circumnavigating the island and returning back to my little cottage. However, whenever I checked Google Maps on my phone, I found that every move closer was made only in the shortest of inches imaginable. I couldn’t even fathom how long it might take to get back. As the sun set and the light began to fade, I started to get scared. I was alone in a strange place, on an unfamiliar island that I had been warned was full of wild animals. The thought of being attacked by some kind of animal made my heart race and I started to rethink my decision to walk around the island.
But it was too late for that, and my world-famous reputation as a traveling Hard Boi was on the line. Therefore, I knew I couldn’t back down. I took a deep breath and tried to focus on what was in front of me – it was too late to turn back now. I kept walking, carefully keeping an eye out for anything that might be lurking in the shadows. As darkness descended upon the island, I quickened my pace – eager to make it back before nightfall. I relied on my phone from that moment onward, using flashlight mode to illuminate the pitfalls and cacti hidden between the rocks.
After the sunset, the tides rose
One thing was working on my side so far while traveling alone on an island like I was doing. Walking on the cliffs protected me from the increasingly erratic waters below. As darkness descended everywhere, waves crashed against the rock face. I started to feel scared. After all, if I slipped or stumbled during one of these treacherous walks, it could mean certain death for me. It’d either be a choice drowning or classic rock ripping. All I knew was that my battered feet would have to hold the weight of my hope on their feet’ shoulders.
But as fear gripped my heart, something else emerged – an inner strength that kept me going despite all odds. As I walked on those cliffs with nothing but the stars shining above me and the sound of waves crashing below me, I couldn’t help but wonder what would happen if I survived this ordeal. At that point, my tour guide tried to call me, but our connection wasn’t strong enough to connect. The sound of another person’s voice did soothe momentarily. So, I decided to call my girlfriend. I seeked her moral support to help me survive traveling alone on an island but, uh, she really couldn’t be bothered. After about three minutes, I was left back to my own devices. And, naturally, devised a foolproof survival plan, therefore.
Then I decided to walk under the cliffs
I made the decision to take a chance and walk beneath the cliffs. Why you ask? Well, maybe I felt annoyed at my girlfriend for being so nonchalant about my situation. Or rather, the cliffs were becoming home to more and more devious rock formations. These formations were flanked by shred-hungry cacti. Meanwhile, the outcropping area between the cliff, rock, and water appeared to grow wider. I could squat down there. So, I resolved to do just that.
As I ventured further away from the shore, the waves became more violent, crashing against the walls and spraying me with salty water. With every step I took, my heart raced faster as fear threatened to overwhelm me. Still, I didn’t stop. I slipped down the narrow underpass between the cliff and the waves, traversing moist stones as the sound of the waves rang more and more like drums in my ears. My mind was a blur. Henceforth kneeling, I was going through a tunnel of stone, with only my iPhone’s light for guidance.
I crawled on jagged rocks between the waves and crabs
I crawled on jagged rocks between the waves and the cliff face, my heart pounding in my chest. Every step was a struggle against the tide and the sharp edges of the stones that threatened to cut into my skin. I gritted my teeth and kept moving forward, determined to make it through this ordeal alive. However, I didn’t account for anyone keeping me company on this trek until my light illuminated the forest of crabs scurrying at my feet. I shivered intensely. What if I accidentally stepped on one or placed my palm on one? Would the pain triggered by its claws be enough to send me hurtling into the water?
I was on all fours at this point, unable to stand in the small area. I could hardly even balance on the uneven surface. What would I do to make it out? The waves kept crashing around me, threatening to drag me under at any moment. I felt like I was moving in slow motion as I hesitated to deal with the crabs. Following each passing second, the fear that had first gripped me only hours ago seemed to dissipate until finally, I slammed a fist hard against the rock to force the crabs into hiding. With every two feet forward, I intercepted another colony of crabs. With every two feet forward, I rammed five fingers into the stone, until my knuckles were bruised up, washing with blood, sweat, and saltwater.
My tour guide called me, realized I was lost, and rushed over
When my tour guide called me, I spoke in disjointed breaths, still trying to balance holding the phone and balancing in my makeshift tunnel. He realized that I was lost, and ordered me to return to the beach I started this trek. I hesitated at first, unwilling to give up. But, as the blood rushed and my soaked pants reeked of seawater, I gave in. I pretended to support his caring tendencies but really it was the huge fear I held, amplified tenfold by my decision to walk under the rocks. That’s what causes me to finally turn back and retrace my steps.
My tour guide rushed over without hesitation. By the time, we found each other, I had reached the beachhead from which I began this doomed outing. In the pitch-black night, it looked completely different. Without streetlights, I relied on him shouting my name to reunite with my tour guide. As soon as he arrived, he put his arm around my shoulder and took me away from the path that I had been trying to find my way out of. I followed closely behind him, my heart pounding with every step we took. My sandals kept slipping out due to the tears they’d received at the hands of the rocks. Eventually, though, he stopped in front of a motorbike and motioned for me to get on. I was saved.
He feared for my life when he met me, due to venomous snakes there
My tour guide was much more relieved to see a dismembered sandal was my most serious injury than I assumed he would be. He told me he feared what the island’s wildlife could have done to me. He knew that this area was home to venomous snakes, and feared for my life as soon as he learn I had wandered away at night. On the ride back across the same narrow road I walked on hours before, he repeated again and again how lucky I was to be alive and well. After a while, things like that start to hit you too.
I can be stubborn at times and not wanting to admit mistakes. See my decision to start traveling alone on an island I’d never even heard of before. Yeah. Stubborn. I mean not really I am like literally perfect but anywho… This time, at the thought of getting clapped by an animal that literally can’t clap, I decided to show my appreciation. I thanked him profusely for coming back for me and saving me from harm’s way. Without his quick thinking and bravery, I could have easily been bitten by one of the snakes that I didn’t even know to be on the lookout for.
We made it back to safety on the back of his motorbike
The deserted island was beginning to frenzy into nocturnal life by the time we made it back to safety on the back of my guide’s motorbike. The flames of the little cottage’s lanterns never seemed more appealing to my eyes than then. I was exhausted and my clothes were soaked from the sweat and water but I felt a sense of relief that I never thought possible. After being lost on and under those cliffs for what seemed like hours, I finally made it back in one piece! And not Bleached! Get it? It was an anime joke! Super connected to the topic at hand!
I will never forget the experience of traveling alone on an island. Right after we returned home, I showered, called my parents, and slept. This was just one of those times you need to do that when it could all easily be gone. I felt eternally grateful to my guide for the kindness he showed me that day – risking his own safety for my sake. I also shamed myself for my hubris and dumb decision-making. But, like the guide told me, the reasons behind getting lost weren’t important, only that I got found. We henceforth returned to South Sulawesi the next day in peace hours before officially parting ways. I was happy to be back in civilization in Makassar. And yet, I felt at peace, keeping the surreal distinction of knowing I nearly got smoked by Mother Nature just hours before.
Lessons Learned
None.
I mean what’s travel without the chance to almost get poisoned and drowned!?
YEAH!
[…] talked about this moment before. You can find it here. So, I won’t go too long or too deep into the shock and terror this excursion gave little […]